Dordogne itinerary in 6 days
Including Sarlat, Domme and Les Eyzies
The Dordogne region in the south-west of France includes some of the most beautiful villages in the country. There is actually a rating system and the Dordogne region has the highest concentration of these beautiful villages. There's no better way to see them than by foot, in my opinion. I've done walking trips in the past and always loved them. This time my husband and I, along with another couple, walked (and canoed!) in the Dordogne region.
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It was a trip of a lifetime. We loved it. Great food, great wine and lots of walking (lots of exercise!). We also visited the town of Sarlat before the start of our tour. Sarlat's entire old town is considered an historical monument so everything is pristine and charming. It has a busy market a couple of days per week. I highly recommend this region.
Day 1
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Morning
We started our trip in Bordeaux. After breakfast we were picked up by Hubert (Hubert Visites Guide). We arranged for him to transfer us from Bordeaux to Sarlat, our first stop in the Dordogne. En route to Sarlat Hubert took us to the town of Saint Emilion and to a couple of wineries. It was a really fun day.
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We started in Saint Emilion where Hubert toured us around the village. Saint Emilion is a commune located just east of Bordeaux. It is a medieval city in the heart of the wine hills. The town and surrounding vineyards are a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its long history of wine-making, Romanesque churches and ruins stretching along the steep and narrow streets.
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We walked around the town visiting the various monuments including the cloister, the Cardinal Palace, the market hall and the steep streets. We stopped at a veranda at the top of the town for sweeping views of the roofs below and the vineyards in the distance.
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Hubert took us to the famous Rock Carved Sanctuary which is a vast underground sanctuary. It was gradually enlarged as the centuries went by. The “Monolith”, as it was nicknamed, was carved out in the 11th century, and represents the main part of this monastery. It was very unique and interesting to see.
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Following the tour of Saint Emilion, Hubert took us to two very different wineries in the Saint Emilion Grand Cru region. The first winery was a small, family owned winery called Chateau Laniote St. Emilion. The owner personally took us around to show us how he produces wine, gave us several tastings and even threw in a few magic tricks! He was very warm and entertaining and this was a very personal experience.
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The second winery was called Chateau La Croizille. This family run winery has been around since 1950. The large winery sits on a gorgeous and expansive vineyard. It has both the original production house and a new, more modern one. We started our visit with a picnic lunch (with wine of course!) which we enjoyed on their veranda with sweeping views of vineyards all around. After lunch we had tours of both the old and new production facilities with wine tastings at the end. The wine was so delicious that we bought a couple of bottles to enjoy later on our trip.
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This was a lovely day and after the wineries we drove straight to Sarlat.
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Afternoon
We arrived in our gorgeous hotel, Le Temps Retrouvé, in Sarlat in the late afternoon. I'm not sure where to begin. Sometimes you come across a hidden gem that blows you away. This is one of them. Located just a short walking distance from the historic centre of Sarlat this inn is stunning. Its owners have renovated the house in the most tasteful and interesting way. The rooms are spacious with modern washrooms. The grounds are gorgeous and lush with several spots to enjoy and relax. There is a pool and the breakfast is delightful. The owners are very welcoming and helpful in every way. Highly recommend as a base for the Dordogne (if you're driving around) or for a short stay in Sarlat.
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We got settled then headed out to the local bakery and cheese shop. We bought a baguette and lots of delicious items to make a charcuterie board. Back at the hotel we sat in one of the lush patios, opened a bottle of wine and had a relaxing afternoon of hor dourves, wine and great conversation.
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Evening
After a short rest, we headed out to the historic centre to walk around and have dinner at Auberge Le Mirandol. Located in the centre of the historic town, this restaurant served the best cassoulet that we had on our trip. The restaurant is in a cozy stone building.
Day 2
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Morning
Following a delicious breakfast we headed to the historic centre. We planned to be in Sarlat for it's famous market day - which takes place on Saturday's and Wednesday's. This market is known as one of the best in the region and it did not disappoint.
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We booked a market and food tour with Ophorus Tours - Sarlat Market Tour. Our guide walked us through the open-air market as well as the covered market, with stops at some of his favourite vendors where we tried meats, cheeses, walnuts, walnut liquors and cakes, as well as other delicacies. It was interesting to hear about the history of the town and the market itself.
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Following the tour we walked around the town. In order to get a birds eye view of this charming town we took the panoramic lift which is located inside the bell tower of the former Sainte-Marie church, located at the heart of the medieval town. This historical building has been home to the town’s not-to-be-missed covered market since 2000.
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Once the glass doors slide shut, you’re in for a full minute of ascension, up 35m/115ft. At the top, you remain inside the elevator which has 360 degree panoramic views overlooking the cobblestone streets, blonde stone buildings and red stone roofs of this medieval town as well as the fields beyond! The guide in the elevator was entertaining and gave an interesting history of the town.
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Afternoon
We were getting a bit hungry (hard to believe) so we sat at a small cafè in town for a rest and had some sandwiches.
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After the short rest we wandered over to the Saint Sacerdos Cathedral. We went inside and saw a lovely temporary art exhibit by some local artists. From there we continued wandering and saw some of the famous monuments and statues in the town, including the one of three geese - dedicated to the main stays of the local cuisine, foie gras and everything made from goose and duck.
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We wandered along the cobblestone streets for a little while then headed back to our hotel. Along the way, we picked up some tasty snacks for our charcuterie and wine back at the hotel.
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Evening
For dinner we booked L'Adresse. This restaurant had a nice patio and is located in the historic centre of town. It served traditional food of the region which of course included duck!
Day 3
Morning
After breakfast we were picked up by our tour guide, Sarissa, from Taxi and Touring à la Carte. Sarissa transferred us from Sarlat to Domme in her comfortable van. We had a wonderful morning with Sarissa. She is lively, fun and was able to share stories of the history of the region and her life here.
Along the way we stopped at a couple of regional gems (of which there are many).
First we visited the Gardens of Eyrignac Manor where we spent about an hour strolling through these beautiful, pristine gardens. The gardens include 10 hectares of sculpted plants. A unique example of Topiary Art in France. There are seven gardens on the property, each with distinct features, including a green sculpture garden, a Chinese pagoda, the French-style Parterre (ornamental garden), the flower garden and the beautiful white garden adorned with fountains. The Gardens are at the top of a hill with beautiful views.
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Next we visited the Carsac Water Gardens which were like a scene out of a Monet painting. The 4.5 hectares of the Jardins D'eau is a special experience. We followed a terraced path which takes you around pools, ponds, calm waters, waterfalls, streams, and lush vegetation provided by lotuses and water lilies in an enchantment of colours - each more beautiful than the last. It was breathtaking.
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Afternoon
After these beautiful gardens we continued on our way to the town Domme, stopping to admire some monuments along the way.
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Once we arrived in Domme we checked into the Hotel L'Esplanade. This hotel is located right on the Dordogne river in a grand old building in the town of Domme. The views are beautiful but the rooms and common areas are outdated. It has a nice veranda and beautiful views from its dining room. It is located in the centre of the village of Domme close to cafes and restaurants.
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We then headed to Le Belvedere restaurant. This was a great spot for lunch. We were craving some vegetables and they had nice, fresh salads and beautiful views from their large terrace.
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After lunch we walked around the small village and did a 45 minute tour of the underground Cave of Domme which is accessed in the village square. The cave has amazing stalactites and stalagmites. It has beautiful light features that complement the natural light of the cave.
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Evening
After a rest at the hotel we went down for dinner at the hotel's restaurant. The grand room has nice views of the Dordogne. They served traditional food of the region.
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This hotel, as well as the next three were booked by ATG Oxford, the tour company we used for our walk the following three days.
Day 4 - Walk Domme to Beynac
Hotel
Sarlat
♥♥♥♥♥
I'm not sure where to begin. Sometimes you come across a hidden gem that blows you away. This is one of them. Located just a short walking distance from the Old Town of Sarlat this inn is stunning. Its owners have renovated the house in the most tasteful and interesting way. The rooms are spacious with modern washrooms. The grounds are gorgeous and lush with several spots to enjoy and relax. There is a pool and the breakfast is delightful. The owners are very welcoming and helpful in every way. Highly recommend as a base for the Dordogne (if you're driving around) or for a short stay in Sarlat.
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Domme
♥♥♥
This hotel is located right on the Dordogne river in a grand old building in the town of Domme. The views are beautiful but the rooms and common areas are outdated. It has a nice veranda and beautiful views from its dining room. It is located in the centre of the village of Domme with cafes and restaurants.
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Beynac
♥♥♥♥
Wow! This is truly a gorgeous chateau with stunning grounds and restaurant which serves delicious food. The rooms are somewhat outdated but they are clean and comfortable. The pool area is beautiful. It is located in the country side and is a big surprise when you come upon it. Talk about feeling like royalty!
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Meyrals
♥♥♥
A sweet little gem in the countryside, literally located on a farm. This charming hotel has beautiful grounds facing the farm fields, with a pool and veranda. Dinner is served on the veranda by the owner. The rooms are a little outdated but they are comfortable and quiet.
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Les Eyzies-de-Tayak
♥♥♥♥♥
It's always a pleasure to arrive at a gorgeous hotel after a long day of walking. This hotel hit the spot in the interesting town of Les Eyzies. The rooms were beautiful and luxurious. The garden and pool area so relaxing and the restaurant was delicious.
Noteworthy Restaurants
The restaurants in the Dordogne region have very similar menus. The main cuisine is duck or goose so there are many versions of foie gras and cooked poultry. Sometimes a little hard to distinguish one menu from the other but all the restaurants where we ate had solid, delicious cuisine.
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Saint Emilion:
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Chateau La Croizille. This vineyard offers lovely picnic lunches served on the terraces overlooking the vineyards. Very special spot and fresh food.
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Sarlat:
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Auberge Le Mirandol. Located in the centre of the historic town, this restaurant served the best cassoulet that we had on our trip. The restaurant is in a cozy stone building.
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L'Adresse. Nice patio and located in the historic centre of town.
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Domme:
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Hotel L'Esplanade Restaurant. This traditionally decorated and formal restaurant in the hotel offers beautiful views of the Dordogne river. They have a terrace with lime trees to relax with a drink. They serve typical cuisine of the region.
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Le Belvedere. This was a great spot for lunch. We were craving some vegetables and they had nice, fresh salads. Beautiful views from their large terrace.
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Beynac:​
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Bistro at Domaine du Château de Monrecour. This was on of our favourite restaurants in the Dordogne. Located in the grand palace grounds, this contemporary building offered a delicious and more modern menu. The service was great and the surroundings were stunning.
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Chateau de Marqueyssac The beautiful Chateau, built in the 17th century, and its gardens has a lovely restaurant with a patio for lunch which overlooks the valley below. They offer charcuteries, salads, sandwiches and wine. It totally hit the spot and we were even accompanied by some peacocks who gave us a lovely show!
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Meyrals:
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Restaurant at Hotel de la Ferme Lamy. Located on a charming farm in the countryside, we sat on the patio overlooking the fields and the pool. The chef/owner cooked a delicious meal using local produce and meats.
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Les Eyzies-de-Tayak
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Hotel Restaurant Le Centenaire. This is not only a beautiful hotel but the restaurant is superb. The food was delicious and the service was wonderful.
Tours and Guides
Hubert Visites Guide. We booked Hubert to transfer us from Bordeaux to Sarlat. Along the way we stopped for a tour of Saint Emilion and some wineries. It was a beautiful day.
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Ophorus Tours - Sarlat Market Tour. Sarlat is known to have one of the best markets in the Dordogne region. We chose to do a food tour on market day.
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Taxi and Touring à la Carte. We used this tour company to transfer from Sarlat to Domme. We had a wonderful day with Sarissa. We visited the Carsac Water Gardens and the Gardens of Eyrignac Manor. Both were breathtaking. Sarissa is lively and knowledgable. We had a great day with her.
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ATG Oxford. We did a walking tour, from town to town, of the Dordogne region organized by ATG. We've used them before and find them to be reliable and very organized. They book our hotels, give us the detailed walking instructions and transfer our luggage from hotel to hotel. I highly recommend these tours if you are fit and like to do some slow travelling.
Favourite Monuments and Gardens
Rock Carved Sanctuary. Located in Saint Emilion, this is a vast underground sanctuary. It was gradually enlarged as the centuries went by. The “Monolith”, as it was nicknamed, was carved out it in the 11th century, and represents the main part of this first monastery. ​
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Gardens of Eyrignac Manor. The gardens include 10 hectares of sculpted plants surrounding a formal manor house. A unique example of Topiary Art in France. There are seven gardens on the property, each with distinct features.
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Carsac Water Gardens. Like a scene out of a Monet painting, the 4.5 hectares garden is a special experience to stroll through. There is a terraced path which takes you around pools, ponds, calm waters, waterfalls, streams, and lush vegetation filled with lotuses and water lilies in an enchantment of colours. It was breathtaking.​
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Chateau de Castelnaud. Built in the 12th century, provides glorious panoramic views of valley below. We visited inside the Chateau which now contains a museum of medieval warfare.
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Chateau de Marqueyssac. The Chateau was built in the 17th century.​ The current gardens were designed in the 19th century by the same landscaper who designed Versailles. The romantic and picturesque gardens offer over 6km of pathways surrounded by over 150,000 very precisely, hand-pruned boxwoods. There were spectacular viewpoints of the valley and its many chateaus.
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Chateau de Beynac. It was built in the 12th century by the barons of Beynac and sits on a cliff.
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Chateau des Milandes. This chateau, built in 1489, is well known because it was owned by the famous American-French dancer and entertainer, Josephine Baker, who purchased it in 1947. She updated the chateau with modern features and much of the design work is still on display as well as some of her lavish dance costumes.
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Chateau de Commarque. Stands on a rocky outcrop in the valley of the river La Beune in the Vézère valley region. Dating from the 12th century, Commarque was a fortified village made up of six different fortresses. The site was abandoned in the 16th century and was slowly crumbling until the late 1960s when the present owner, Hubert Commarque, started a long-term restoration project.
Itinerary Add-ons
This itinerary can be combined with:
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Morning
After breakfast we headed out for our first walk which would take us from Domme to Beynac. We booked our self-guided walking trip with a company called ATG Oxford based out of the UK. They book the hotels, provide a book with detailed instructions for the walks (including detailed directions, best places to stop for lunch, historical information about the towns, etc.), luggage transfers from hotel to hotel and the service of a route manager from the area who met with us the first morning and is available by phone 24/7. I highly recommend ATG Oxford. The trip was very well-organized and they were great to communicate with. I will definitely use them again.
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We left our hotel and walked down to the river. This day was very special because it included an hour of canoeing along the beautiful Dordogne river. We got into our canoes (which were outfitted with life-jackets and waterproof containers for our knapsacks and cameras). The canoe ride was glorious. We canoed by the picturesque town of La Roque-Gegeac, with its old buildings perched along the river set agains the limestone cliffs.
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The river was calm and easy to paddle down stream. After about an hour we dropped the canoes off at the village of Castelnaud with its cute square and continued our walk uphill to the Chateau de Castelnaud which was built in the 12th century. We visited inside the Chateau which now contains a museum of medieval warfare. The chateau also provides glorious panoramic views of valley below.
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We continued our walk along the river and cobbled paths to the Chateau de Marqueyssac and its beautiful gardens, located near the village of Vézac. We were quite hungry at that point and luckily the Chateau, built in the 17th century, and its gardens has a lovely restaurant with a patio for lunch. We ordered some charcuteries, salads, wine and had a short rest before walking around the gardens.
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The current gardens were designed in the 19th century by the same landscaper who designed Versailles. The romantic and picturesque gardens offer over 6km of pathways surrounded by over 150,000 very precisely, hand-pruned boxwoods. There were spectacular viewpoints of the valley and its many chateaus. We spent about an hour walking around there.
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Afternoon
After leaving the gardens we headed back downhill and walked along small country roads and trails toward the small village of Beynac with its cobblestone streets, stone buildings and the Chateau de Beynac located at the top of the hill. We ascended up the charming village to the castle, which was built in the 12th century by the barons of Beynac and sits on a cliff. We stopped for an ice cream at a small cafè on our way back down.
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We continued on our way on the footpath along the river toward our hotel for the night, Chateau Monrecour. As we were walking along the country road, we noticed another beautiful chateau. What a lovely and unexpected surprise that it ended up being our incredible accommodations for the night. The Domeine du Chateau Monrecour is a gorgeous chateau with stunning grounds and a restaurant which serves delicious food. The rooms are somewhat outdated but they are clean and comfortable. The pool area is beautiful. It is located in the country side. Talk about feeling like royalty!
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We checked into our rooms and then headed down to the pool area for some well-deserved snacks and wine with our friends.
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Evening
After a rest in our rooms we headed for dinner to the chateau restaurant. Bistro at Domaine du Château de Monrecour was on of our favourite restaurants in the Dordogne. Located in the grand palace grounds, this contemporary building offered a delicious and more modern menu. The service was great and the surroundings were stunning.
Day 5 - Walk Beynac to Meyrals
Morning
After our delicious breakfast in the chateau we were picked up by a taxi (arranged through ATG) and driven to Chateau des Milandes. This chateau is well known because it was owned by the famous American-French dancer and entertainer, Josephine Baker, who purchased it in 1947. She updated the chateau with modern features and much of the design work is still on display as well as some of her lavish dance costumes.
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Built in 1489, this charming castle with its magnificent Gothic features is a great example of Renaissance architecture. There is an audio tour inside the castle which describes the history of the building as well as the life of Josephine Baker, whose good fortune ended tragically. The grounds include a beautiful garden.
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After exiting Chateau des Milandes we started on our walking route to the picturesque village of St. Cyprien. This took around two hours which meant that we worked up an appetite for lunch. There are several small restaurants to choose from in the town square, with its lovely stone church. We chose a restaurant with a nice patio where lots of locals were eating. We ordered glasses of beer to quench our thirst and some hearty food for lunch.
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Afternoon
After our lunch break we continued on our way along forest trails, country roads and fields of wheat toward our next hotel, Hotel de la Ferme Lamy. A sweet little gem in the countryside, literally located on a farm, this charming hotel has beautiful grounds facing the wheat fields, with a pool and patio. Dinner is served on the patio by the owner. The rooms are a little outdated but they are comfortable and quiet.
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We checked into the hotel and sat by the pool to relax with a glass of wine and some snacks.
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Evening
After a rest in our rooms, we headed to the patio for dinner where the owner/chef served us a multi-course dinner with wine overlooking the wheat fields during sunset. It was a beautiful and relaxing evening.
Day 6 - Walk Ferme Lamy to Les Eyzies-de-Tayac
Morning
Today was the final day of our wallking trip. After a lovely breakfast on the farm we headed out. We were told to order a picnic lunch from the hotel as there weren't going to be any restaurants along the route.
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Our walk began through farm lanes and country roads until we reached the Chateau de Commarque which stands on a rocky outcrop in the valley of the river La Beune in the Vézère valley region.
Dating from the 12th century, Commarque was a fortified village made up of six different fortresses. The site was abandoned in the 16th century and was slowly crumbling until the late 1960s when the present owner, Hubert Commarque, started a long-term restoration project. There are several well-preserved sections, including the tower of the Beynac fortress. The base of the fortress has troglodytes carved into the rock indicating some prehistoric life in the area. It was fascinating and the self-guided tour included a booklet with explanations. We spent a little over an hour exploring this Chateau.
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After we left Commarque we took some nice forest trails and then some country roads until we arrived in the tiny village of Sireuil, with its small stone church. This was a perfect spot for our picnic lunch as there was a picnic table outside the church and a water fountain. We were quite hungry so our sandwiches, fruit and vegetables were delicious. It was a lovely and peaceful spot.
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Afternoon
After our lunch break we continued on our way to Les Eyzies, where our next hotel was located. The walk brought us to the outskirts of town and allowed us to walk through the charming town to our hotel.
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Les Eyzies is considered the "European Capital of Prehistory". It is famous for the wealth of prehistoric sites which can be found in the natural caves and rock overhangs. These caves attracted migrants from the northern plains during the second Ice Age. The cliffs and caves in the centre of town are quite an impressive site to see.
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We made it to our hotel, Hotel Le Centenaire by late afternoon and were greeted with a cold drink on the beautiful patio. It's always a pleasure to arrive at a gorgeous hotel after a long day of walking. The rooms were beautiful and luxurious. The garden and pool area so relaxing and the restaurant was delicious.
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After a short rest we headed to town to explore and to pick up some items for our charcuterie for the last evening of our trip. We walked along the river, wandered in and out of shops and went into a cheese store for our snacks.
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We got back to the hotel and sat in the beautifully treed patio with our cheese, saucisson, and wine and toasted to an incredible and fun adventure.
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Evening
After a rest in our rooms we headed downstairs for dinner. The restaurant offered modern French cuisine. The food was delicious and the service was amazing.
Day 7
Morning
Since we had to leave early this morning the hotel arranged for breakfast to be delivered to our room. It was lovely with homemade croissants, fruit and yogurt.
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We had arranged a private transfer to the Bordeaux airport with Mark from Eymet Private Driver. He arrived on time and the transfer went very smoothly.